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February 04, 2005
Ode to Elephant & Castle
When it comes to eating in Manhattan, I'm a creature of habit. I have a few restaurants I feel at home in, and as much as I try to go to the latest place-with-lots-of-buzz, I usually end up at one of the old standards. Going to one of them is like going to an old friend's house. If I drank regularly I would feel the same way about a bar, but since I'm more of a food addict I have these three stand-bys: Veselka, Souen, and my original favorite, Elephant & Castle.
Elephant & Castle opened in 1973 and hasn't changed much since then, although it doesn't feel outdated so much as worn in, like a good pub. There's a great story about the name here. Apparently I was taken there as a baby when my parents lived on Perry street. I don't remember going there as a child, but I must have known about it because I always took friends there on trips into the city in high school (it was the only place I knew of and it was within walking distance of Washington Square Park and the PATH).
It's the default setting for small family reunions and a good place for a long conversation. Derek and I come together sometimes, but since our mutual favorite is Veselka, E&C has earned the designation of being the place where I go to discuss our relationship ad nauseum with friends (one of whom, incidentally, was born across the street at St. Vincent's and was probably also an early customer).
Wood paneling, old-style windows, the British name (Elephant & Castle is the name of a traffic circle in London), and a collection of ceramic elephants give it a cozy feel. The menu has a mix of simple and complicated dishes, ranging from omelettes to sautéed shrimp to crepes. There are a interesting items like Boston Indian Pudding, and "Puréed Spinach with Poached Eggs, Melted Cheese and Potato Pancakes" (for brunch). The special soups can be fantastic. The Grand Marnier crepe is a bit much for me, but I love the Casa Blanca (with fudge and ice cream). The house salad comes with a great mustard dressing -- my mother asked for the recipe for it years ago and makes it at home sometimes. Bowls of milk with orzata, café au lait, or hot chocolate are all on the menu. The coffee there is always perfect. Derek tells me the burgers are great. The Green 'n Gold omelette (cheddar and spinach) is a good choice if you don't know what to get.
I must be an Anglophile. Londonist yesterday, and this today. But if you haven't been dragged to E&C by me at some point, I highly recommend it. It's interesting that Souen and E&C are both 30-year veterans of the New York restaurant scene and Veselka has been around forever -- they can each please a loyal crowd of regulars while attracting new clientele at the same time. I'm probably drawn to them because they remind me of how long I've been in the city (10 years) -- they make me feel like a New Yorker (say that with an accent).
Posted by csageday at February 4, 2005 12:44 AM